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3/4" Solid Plank & Strip
Products
For Nail-Down Installation
INSTALLER/OWNER
RESPONSIBILITY
Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of nature and
therefore, not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in
accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect
tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or
natural type.
- The installer assumes all responsibility for final
inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring
should be done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for
color, finish and quality before installing it. If material is not
acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.
- Prior to installation of any hardwood-flooring
product, the installer must determine that the job-site
environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all
applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and
materials industries. These instructions recommend that the
construction and subfloor be dry, stiff and flat. The manufacturer
declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from or
associated with sub-surface or job-site environment deficiencies.
- Prior to installation, the installer/owner has
final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and
factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and
hold out or cut off pieces with defects, whatever the cause.
- Use of stain, filler or putty stick for defect
correction during installation should be accepted as normal
procedure.
- When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to the
actual square footage needed for cutting and grading allowance.
- Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade,
manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not use the
piece.
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TOOLS & ACCESSORIES NEEDED
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- Broom
- Tape Measure
- Chalk line & chalk
- Hand saw
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- Drill with 1/16" drill bit
- Hammer
- Recommended Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
- Nail Set
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- Table saw,jig saw,or circular saw
- Moisture meter (wood,concrete or both)
- 6-8d finishing nails
- 3/4" "Blind" fastening machine
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PRE-INSTALLATION
PROCEDURES |
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Job Site Inspection
- The building should be closed in with all
outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry,
framing members, drywall, paint and other "wet" work should
be thoroughly dry.
- The wall coverings should be in place and the
painting completed except for the final coat on the base
molding. When possible, delay installation of base molding
until flooring installation is complete.
- Exterior grading should be complete with
surface drainage directing water away from the building. All
gutters and downspouts should be in place.
- Solid flooring can only be installed on or
above grade level. Do not install in full bathrooms.
- Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and
well ventilated.
- Crawl space must be a minimum of 24" (600 mm)
from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of
6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor
barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl
space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of
1.5% of the crawl space square footage. These vents should
be properly located to foster cross ventilation (see figure
#1).
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- Subfloor must be checked for moisture content
using the appropriate testing method.
- Permanent air conditioning and heating
systems should be in place and operational. The installation
site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-75
degrees F and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during
and until occupied, to allow for proper acclimation.
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STORAGE AND HANDLING
Solid products should be stored in the environment in
which they are expected to perform. Deliver the materials to an
environmentally controlled site. Materials should be allowed to
acclimate for as long as necessary to meet minimum installation
requirements for moisture content. Handle and unload with care.
Store in a dry place being sure to provide at least a four-inch air
space under cartons which are stored upon "on-grade" concrete
floors. Flooring should not be delivered until the building has been
closed in with windows and doors in place and until cement work,
plastering and all other "wet" work is completed and dry. Concrete
should be at least 60 days old. Air conditioning/heating systems
should be in place and in operation at least 14 days prior, during
and after installation of the flooring.
INSTALLATION APPLICATIONS
NOTE: MINOR SQUEAKING OF MECHANICALLY FASTENED FLOORS
IS NOT ABNORMAL DUE TO STRUCTURAL MOVEMENT CAUSED BY CHANGES IN
ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS. FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN MINIMIZE
THESE FACTORS, BUT OFFER NO GUARANTEE THAT THE FLOOR WILL NOT
SQUEAK. |
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General Information for Fastening
Machines:
Avoid striking the edge of prefinished
products with the fastener's mallet. Edge crushing can occur
causing unsightly cracks and splinters. Use a block to hammer
against if necessary (figure #2). Faceplates should be covered
with protective materials to prevent damage to the surface of
the flooring.
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General Information for Manual Fastening
Machines:
Improper adapter plate selection can cause severe
edge damage. Ascertain that the proper adapter has been selected and
properly installed for 3/4" flooring.
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General Information for Pneumatic Fastening
Machines:
Improper pressure settings and failure to use
proper adapters can cause severe damage to the flooring. The
correct adapter and air pressure setting will properly set the
fastener in the nail pocket (figure #3). Low air pressures may
fail to properly set the fastener and damage adjoining
boards. |
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Air pressures set too high may cause damage to the
tongue which may dramatically reduce the holding power of the
fastener causing loose, squeaky floors. Make certain that the
compressor has a regulator in-line with the air hose for proper
adjustment. Set pressure at 70-75 PSI to begin with and adjust until
proper fastener setting occurs. |
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
NOTE: Laminated rosin paper or 15# builders felt (tarpaper) acts
as a moisture retarder and may be used to reduce movement caused by
changes in subfloor moisture, thereby reducing cupping and warping.
(This is especially helpful over crawl spaces and basements) In
addition, the use of these materials can give the flooring a more
solid feeling, reduce sound transfer, prevent noise caused by minor
irregularities and debris, and make it easier to slide the wood
together across the surface of the subfloor. Kraft paper may be used
to make installation easier but DOES NOT serve any other
purpose.
SUBFLOORS MUST BE:
- CLEAN - Scrape, broom clean, and smooth. Free of
wax, paint, oil or debris.
- LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16" in 10' and/or 1/8" in 6'.
Sand high areas or joints. Low spots can be flattened using shims
or layers of builders felt between the wood and the subfloor
during installation.
- STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose areas
that squeak. Replace any water-damaged, swollen or delaminated
subflooring or underlayments, as they are unable to properly hold
fasteners. Avoid subfloor with excessive vertical movement unless
they have been properly stiffened prior to the installation of the
wood flooring.
- DRY - Check moisture content of subfloor. Moisture
content of wood subfloor must not exceed 13% on a wood moisture
meter, or read more than a 4% difference (3% for plank) than
moisture level of product being installed.
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RECOMMENDED SUBFLOOR SURFACES
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- PREFERRED: 3/4" (19 mm) CDX grade plywood
3/4" (23/32") OSB PS2 rated underlayment
MINIMUM:
5/8" CDX grade plywood |
- Existing solid wood flooring
- Screeds
- T&G wood subflooring
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SUBFLOOR TYPES:
Note: Do Not Install Solid
Wood Plank or Strip Over Radiant Heated Subfloors
WOOD SUBFLOORS & WOOD STRUCTURAL PANEL
SUBFLOORS
Plywood: Must be minimum APA grade rated sheathing
or CDX. Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Must be PS2 rated installed
sealed side down. Do Not install over particleboard, waferboard,
pressed wood or fiber board. |
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Make sure existing floor or subfloor is dry
and well nailed or screwed down every 6" along each joist to
avoid squeaking or popping before the floor is installed.
Measure moisture content of both subfloor and wood flooring to
determine proper moisture content with a reliable wood
moisture meter (figure #4). The wood subfloor must not exceed
13% moisture content as measured with a reliable wood moisture
meter. The difference between the moisture content of the wood
subfloor and the wood flooring must not exceed 4%. (3% for
plank)
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Optimum performance of hardwood floor covering
products occurs when there is no horizontal or vertical movement of
the subfloor. The MINIMUM subfloor recommendations described above
are for 16" O/C joist spacing. The thicker, PREFERRED subfloor
recommendations described above will allow 19.2" joist spacing if
the joist manufacturer's recommended span is not exceeded. Spacing
in excess of 19.2" O/C may not offer optimum results. Install
flooring perpendicular to the floor joists when possible.
Installations should not be made parallel to the floor joists or on
joist spacing that exceeds 19.2" O/C unless the subfloor has been
properly stiffened. Stiffening may require the addition of a second
layer of subflooring material to bring the overall thickness to at
least 1-1/8".
All underlayment panels should be spaced 1/8" apart to
insure adequate expansion space. This can be achieved by using a
circular saw set at the depth of the underlayment and cutting around
the perimeter of the panel. T&G panels normally have built in
expansion; DO NOT cut around the perimeter of T&G panels. Do not
install over existing glue-down floors. Do not install over nailed
floors that exceed 3-1/4" in width. Wide width floors must be
overlaid with plywood. When installing over existing wood floors
parallel with the flooring, it may be necessary to install an
additional 1/4" layer of plywood to stabilize the flooring or
install the wood floor at right angles. Applicable standards and
recommendations of the construction and materials industries must be
met or exceeded.
CONCRETE SLABS
Solid flooring can be
installed over concrete once the appropriate nailing surface has
been installed. The concrete must be of high compressive strength.
All concrete subfloors should be tested for moisture content. Visual
checks are not reliable. Acceptable test methods for subfloor
moisture content include:
NOTE: Test several areas, especially
near exterior walls and walls containing plumbing. |
- A 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol
solution. Chip the concrete at least 1/4" deep (do not apply
directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops of
the solution to the chipped area. If any color change
occurs, further testing is required.
- Calcium Chloride test. The maximum moisture
transfer must not exceed 3 lbs./1000 square feet with this
test.
- Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter meter
(figure #5). Moisture readings should not exceed 4.5 on the
upper scale. (Figure #5 shows an unacceptable reading of
over 4.5)
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A "DRY" SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE WET AT
OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR. THESE TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB.
ALL CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 6 MIL POLY FILM MOISTURE
BARRIER BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE CONCRETE.
Moisture Retardant System: If moisture is present,
install 6-mil poly to the surface of the concrete BEFORE installing
the subfloor. Several layers of laminated rosin paper or builders
felt (tarpaper) may also be used. All materials should have joints
lapped 6". If you have any questions regarding installation or the
handling of moisture problems, please contact the
distributor/retailer from whom the goods were purchased.
Subfloor Systems
Bonded: Install a suitable
moisture retardant followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum
thickness of 3/4". Allow 1/2" expansion space around all vertical
objects and 1/8" between all flooring panels. The panel must be
properly attached to the subfloor using a minimum of one fastener
per square foot and more if necessary. Use pneumatic or powder
actuated fasteners. Do not hand nail the subfloor with concrete
nails. Install a moisture retardant barrier with joints lapped 6"
and begin installation of flooring using 1-1/2" fasteners.
Floating: Install a suitable moisture retardant
followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum of 3/8". Allow 1/2"
expansion space around all vertical objects and 1/8" between all
flooring panels. Install a second layer of 3/8" plywood at a right
angle to the previous panels, offsetting the joints 2'. Staple
together with staples that will not penetrate the first layer of
subfloor with a crown width of 3/8" or more. Install a moisture
retardant barrier as above and begin installation of flooring.
RESILIENT TILE & RESILIENT SHEET
VINYL
Make sure the vinyl or tile is well bonded to the
subfloor. Do not install over more than one layer, which does not
exceed 1/8" in thickness over suitable subfloor. |
DOORWAY AND WALL
PREPARATION
Undercut door casings. Remove any
existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items
can be replaced after installation. All door casings should be
notched out (figure #6) or undercut to avoid difficult scribe
cuts. |
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GENERAL INSTALLATION
TIPS
- Floor should be installed from several
cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade
mixture.
- Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least
6", when possible, in adjacent rows (figure #7). This will
help ensure a more favorable overall appearance of the
floor.
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- Large spans in areas of high humidity may require
the addition of internal or field expansion. This can be
accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10-20
rows inserted above the tongue and removed after several adjoining
rows have been fastened.
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STEP 1: ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT - WALL TO WALL
INSTALLATION
- Installation parallel to the longest wall is
recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should be
installed perpendicular to the flooring joists unless subfloor has
been reinforced to reduce subfloor sagging. Find appropriate
subfloor from "Subfloor Type" section in this instruction manual.
- If a moisture retardant material is to be used,
such as Laminated Rosin Paper (see NOTE, Subfloor Requirements),
install this material before proceeding, lapping joints 6" and
stapling if necessary.
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- Measure the width of the product being
installed. For random or alternate width products, use the
widest plank for the first row.
- Add 1" to allow for 3/4" expansion and the width of the
tongue.
- Using this measurement, in at least two places, measure
out equal distance from the starting wall and 12"-18" from
the corners (figure #8) and snap a chalk line.
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STEP 2: INSTALLING FIRST ROWS - WALL TO WALL
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Always end glue wide width (4" or more)
planks with a good construction adhesive. |
- Use the longest, straightest boards available
for the first two rows. Align tongue of first row on chalk
line. The groove should be facing the starting wall.
Pre-drill the nail holes 1/2" from back (groove) edge, 1-2"
from each end, and at 6" intervals at a 45-degree angle down
through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue (figure
#9).
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- Face-nail the groove side where pre-drilled. When
complete, blind-nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue of
the first row. Fasten using 6 or 8d nails. Countersink nails to
ensure flush engagement of groove. Avoid bruising the wood by
using a nail set to drive the nails the last 1/4" into the tongue.
Continue blind-nailing using this method with following rows until
stapler or nailer can be used.
- End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a
minimum of 6" to ensure a more favorable overall appearance.
- Beginning rows may be blind-nailed where clearance
allows using a pneumatic finish nailer with 15 gauge, 1-1/2"
(minimum) nails.
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STEP 1 & 2: CENTER TO WALL
INSTALLATION
- Snap a chalk line down the center of the
room.
- Install a sacrificial row that extends the
entire length of the room on the center line.
- Install three rows of flooring.
- Remove the sacrificial row and insert a slip
tongue in the open groove.
STEP 3: RACKING THE FLOOR
- "Dry" lay materials to cover approximately
2/3 of the room. Begin dry laying approximately 6" from the
edge of the previously installed rows. Avoid pulling boards
too tightly together on the sides, as they must move freely
when fastening begins.
- Mark the final board in each row and cut to
proper length allowing for expansion. Visually inspect
flooring, setting aside boards that need to have natural
character flaws cut out. Use these boards for starting and
finishing row after objectionable characteristics have been
removed.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
- Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor.
Check for surface damage, air pressure setting, tongue
damage, etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments and
corrections before installation begins. Once proper
adjustments have been made, remove and destroy the board.
- Begin installation with several rows at a
time, fastening each board with at least two fasteners,
8-10" apart and 2-3" from the ends (to avoid splitting).
Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening.
- End-joints of adjacent rows should be
staggered 6" when possible to ensure a more favorable
overall appearance.
- The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed
where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler
or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side
following the nailing pattern used for the first row.
- Rip final row to fit and face-nail. If the
final row is less than 1" in width, it should first be glued
to the previous UNINSTALLED row and the two joined units
should be face-nailed as one.
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INSTALLERS - ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF
THE FOLLOWING
SEASONS: HEATING AND NON-HEATING
Recognizing
that wood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying
levels of humidity within your building, care should be taken to
control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your
investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting
satisfaction, we have provided our recommendations below.
- Heating Season (Dry) - A humidifier is recommended
to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity
levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry
conditions.
- Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet) - Proper humidity
levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner,
dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system periodically
during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water from
tracking during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in
any way the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.
FLOOR REPAIR
Minor damage can be repaired
with a touch-up kit or filler. Major damage will require board
replacement, which can be done by a professional floor
installer.
ALL INSTALLATIONS
STEP 5: COMPLETING THE JOB
- Clean floor with the recommended wood flooring
cleaner.
- Re-install any transition pieces that may be
needed, such as Reducer Strips, T-moldings, or Thresholds. The
products are available pre-finished to blend with your flooring.
(See moldings below)
- Re-install all base and/or quarter round moldings.
Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor. Inspect the floor,
filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
- If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable
material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
- Leave warranty and floor care information with the
owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the
flooring they purchased.
- To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy
appliances and furniture on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or
appliance lifts if necessary.
MOLDINGS
- Reducer Strip: a teardrop shaped molding. Used
around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition
between Parquet and adjacent floor coverings that are thinner.
Fasten down with adhesive or double-faced tape.
- Threshold: a molding undercut for use against
sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing
thresholds to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth
transition in height difference. Fasten to subfloor with adhesive
and/or nails through the heel. Predrill nail holes to prevent
splitting. Always leave expansion beneath the undercut.
- Stair Nosing: a molding undercut for use as a stair
landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten
down firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Predrill nail holes
to prevent splitting.
- Quarter Round: a molding used to cover expansion
space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Predrill
and nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
- Combination Base and Shoe: a molding used when a
base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor
and the wall. Predrill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
- T-Molding: a molding used as a transition piece
from one flooring to another or to gain expansion spaces. Fasten
at the heel in the center of the molding. Leave expansion beneath
the undercut on both sides.
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